Thursday, July 8, 2010

Why don't people drink more Chablis?

A couple of us from Shubie’s went to a seminar on Chablis a few days ago, and an interesting question was raised that no one had a very good answer for: “Why don’t people drink more Chablis?”

A number of reasons were suggested, but I think we missed the most important one, which is this: people like me have been remiss in recommending Chablis. So here it is: You should drink more Chablis!

Why? Because good Chablis is exactly what Chardonnay ought to be but rarely is: fresh and clean, with zesty notes of lemons, limes, green apples, and even sea salt and minerals. It’s absolutely perfect with seafood (and we New Englanders love our seafood!) but can also be served with many cheeses, chicken dishes (especially those with a little bit of butter or cream), and makes a great aperitif.

I’m a huge fan of Chablis (in case you hadn’t already guessed), but I think it suffers from a couple of misconceptions that have prevented more people from trying it. Hopefully I can clear that up here:
  • Real Chablis is always Chardonnay, always from France (I've posted a couple pictures of the town and vineyards here). Chablis is not one of those California jug wines from Almaden or Gallo that you used to see in the 70s and 80s. Wipe those wine-in-a-box laden memories from your mind.
  • Chablis is never “oaky.” A lot of people seem to be tiring of that heavy, oaky style of Chardonnay that used to be very popular. Those of you who are will love Chablis. Most Chablis sees no time in oak barrels at all (the best wines of the region spend time in used oak barrels, which impart little or no flavors to the wine). So it stays crisp, bone dry, refreshing, and never heavy.
Finally, the wine geek in me needs to explain one more aspect about Chablis—the thing that makes these wines so incredibly unique. And that is: dirt.

Seriously, Chablis’ soil famously contains significant deposits of limestone and fossilized oyster shells. I’m not making this up! It sounds crazy, but some of that calcium makes its way into the grapes, giving the wines that sea-salty minerality I mentioned earlier.

Taste it for yourself—we have a great selection of Chablis in the store now, and I’m happy to guide you through it. Ask for me next time you’re in, and say: “I want to drink more Chablis!”

Bill Shube

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