19 Caps, 1 Cork

"Look at this - 20 wines, just one cork!"

That's what George said just before our Australian wine tasting on Saturday. Normally when we host a tasting, regardless of where the wines come from, we end up with dozens of corks strewn across the tables. Australians have embraced the use of screw-cap enclosures for a long time, much more so than wine makers in other countries, but this was really striking - just one cork! One!

So many screw-caps!

What's the reason for this? And are screw-caps better?

There are a few reasons, but the most important one, and the best argument for switching to screw-caps, is cork taint. All cork is sterilized before being used, but the sterilization process is imperfect. About 3% to 5% of all corks remain contaminated with a chemical compound known as TCA - it is harmless to humans, but ruins the wine. If your wine is "corked" - contaminated by TCA - it will either smell like nothing at all (if it is very mildly contaminated), or like a damp, moldy basement or wet socks. It's not pleasant, and it can happen to any wine with a cork enclosure - whether it's your $8 bottle of Pinot Grigio or your $200 bottle of Bordeaux. No wine is safe.

Unless you use a screw-cap, that is. Screw-caps completely side-step this issue. They provide a perfect seal to every bottle, every time. And don't believe the myth that only cheap wines come in screw-caps. John Duval, one of the great wine makers of the world, makes absolutely stunning wines in Australia's Barossa Valley, and all but one of his wines come in screw-caps.

The lone cork.

Screw-caps do have two main disadvantages, though. I once spoke to a French wine maker considering making the switch from cork to screw-cap. He told me that he had been experimenting with screw-caps for years, including aging them long-term in his cellars. He found that there were no flavor differences between wines sealed with corks and screw-caps until they'd been aged for about 8 years or so, after which point the cork-sealed wines started to perform better. So if you're planning on aging your wine long-term, cork is probably the way to go. (I'll be putting a couple bottles of John Duval's screw-capped wines in my cellar - you can read about one of them here. When I open them up in 10 years, I'll let you know how they do!)

The other disadvantage is probably the one most people are concerned with - no "pop!" A lot of people enjoy the ceremony of using a cork screw to pop open a bottle of wine, and they miss that when they drink a screw-capped wine.

The conclusion? I'm a fan - I'd much rather give up the cork popping ceremony for a guarantee that my wine won't have any defects, and almost all of the wine I buy is wine I plan on drinking within in the next six months, so cellaring isn't an issue. I've been pleased to see more and more of our customers coming around to screw-caps, too - I know some people will always want to see a cork in their bottle, but I encourage you all to at least give screw-caps a chance!

Here's to you, Summer 2011!

Growing up, this was always my favorite time of year. The sun is still out past seven, the nights are slightly cooler and everyone is just relaxed and enjoying summer.

I’ve lived in Boston’s Bay Village since April 2010, but somehow for the last two summers I’ve probably spent more time in Marblehead than in Boston. Yes, summer in Boston is a lot of fun, but there’s something about a Marblehead summer that is just so…so…summer.

I can’t imagine summer without Marblehead. I love walking around town at night when you can still smell the smoke of the cooling coals after a cookout. I love leaving work at night and smelling the ocean. I love walking down to Five Corners Kitchen (next summer, I’ll love walking down all summer, not just part of summer), Caffe Italia or Maddie’s (if it’s been a really long day!) and meeting up with friends. I love hearing the clinks of the glasses as people sip and savor long into the night. Sitting near the harbor and listening to the boats rock back and forth with the waves and occasional bell ring or creak of the dock makes a spectacular summer soundtrack.

I love how fruits and veggies just seem tastier and better. Didn’t each tomato just seem better than the previous one? And what’s a tomato without a little fresh mozz or burrata! I’d rather not think of how many pounds of cheese I consumed this summer. Summer 2011 was definitely the Summer of Cheese for me, but I’m not complaining. Montreal renewed my passion for cheese and, in general, food, and I am so excited to share it with you (get ready for October—it’s the first American Cheese Month—more details as we get closer).

I love the sweet smell of ice cream, but I might love the hints of vanilla from a freshly prepared waffle cone even more (enjoyed a little less this summer sans Terry’s). For me, though, the quintessential summer scent is the char of roasted marshmallows.

But growing up, this was also my least favorite time of year. The new school year is right around the corner, which means back to school shopping trips, homework and overloaded schedules.

Push those last thoughts to the side though! We know that we can’t make summer longer, but we have a lot coming up for you to look forward to. Chef Lynne is working on her broths for our Asian Noodle Soups, her roasted vegetable terrine with basil and parmesan is already back in the case, and mac ‘n cheese hopefully will follow it shortly.

Time to say goodbye to the rosés, although we highly recommend storing a bottle or two for summertime flashback when the weather starts to get to you. BZ will be back at the end of the month for an Australian wine tasting that you won’t want to miss.

I am so excited for American Cheese Month in October! My brother and I are busy now planning out the month for you. It will be a month where we celebrate great American cheeses and the people who make them. We already have confirmation that Jasper Hill Farms and Peter Mohn of Vermont Farmstead Cheese Co (a Marbleheader!) will be making guest appearances, with more to be announced soon. This all leads up to our annual Fall Food and Wine Festival on October 29 (you should all mark this on your calendars now!)

I really hope that all of you had a great summer and had some good food and wine along the way. Thank you to all of you who made my Marblehead summer so great. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve enjoyed each summer more and more. But I can’t wait to see what fall has in store for us this year!

Your Foodie Friend,

Dougy

Vivacious Vinegars

When it comes to vinegar, I have to admit, I'm a fanatic—I LOVE them! There’s something addictively sweet and tart to them the totally changes the flavors of everything from salads to desserts.

Vinegar—the word comes from the French “vin aigre,” meaning sour wine—teases us with the intense pungency. Vinegar has been around for as long as we’ve known wine, and is fermented juice that can be obtained from almost any plant, including rice, grain and fruit. I love the way vinegars can totally change the chemistry of a dish and make you go “wow!” Vinegars deserve their fifteen minutes in the spotlight, too! Here are a few of my current favorites.

Fini Balsamic Vinegar: Aged for about twelve months in small barrels, Fini is a superb balsamic for under $20. A rich, dark, intensely flavorful vinegar that is perfect to drizzle over strawberries.

Katz & Co. Sparkling Wine Vinegar: I couldn’t wait to bring this one home! Crisp with a pleasant acidity, a very clean tasting and full-bodied vinegar, yet has a wonderful softness to it. We carry five other vinegars from Katz & Co. and I am amazed at the quality of each one. Great vinegars for under $15.

Balsamo di Mela—Apple Balsamic Vinegar: Yes, this vinegar is actually made from fermented apples!  Balsamo di Mela is aged for five years and adds a light and satisfying sweetness to a variety of dishes. Perfect for raw or grilled veggies, roasted meats, fresh fruits and a must for cheese!

When it comes to food, I usually think more is better (my dad says I get that from my mom’s side of the fam—thanks Mom!) That’s why I typically have two or three oils and vinegars open in my kitchen at any given time. Both last a while and it’s so fun to play with the different varieties and combinations. That’s the best way for me to find out about new products to share with you.

Whenever I help out a customer pick out an oil, vinegar or cheese, I usually wind up saying “here’s one of my favorites” a few times throughout the same conversation. And a lot of you have called me out on having more than one favorite! But I can’t help it—I just love our selection so much I can’t limit myself to one (you try picking one favorite out of fifty flavors of ice cream!)

And it’s the truth when I say, “this is one of my favorites.” When I’m home, whatever vinegar I use changes nightly depending on what I’m in the mood for. Maybe I want the lightness and creaminess of a white balsamic tonight, but tomorrow I could go for intensity of a real balsamic. And that’s what I think makes food so fun—it’s forever changing and evolving with your palate leading the way.

Try something new. Don’t be scared when we offer you a taste of something. We are giving you a taste because we want to share the experience with you. I love seeing someone try something new for the first time and seeing their eyes light up with fascination and going “what was that! I want more!” Is there a cheese that you have been eyeing for a while? Or ever want to taste a Greek kalamata olive next to an Italian cerignola olive? And what the heck is the difference between a toscano and a nostrano salami? Just ask for a taste!

I only know what I like. But I always love finding out what you love.

Your foodie friend,
Dougy