Vivacious Vinegars

When it comes to vinegar, I have to admit, I'm a fanatic—I LOVE them! There’s something addictively sweet and tart to them the totally changes the flavors of everything from salads to desserts.

Vinegar—the word comes from the French “vin aigre,” meaning sour wine—teases us with the intense pungency. Vinegar has been around for as long as we’ve known wine, and is fermented juice that can be obtained from almost any plant, including rice, grain and fruit. I love the way vinegars can totally change the chemistry of a dish and make you go “wow!” Vinegars deserve their fifteen minutes in the spotlight, too! Here are a few of my current favorites.

Fini Balsamic Vinegar: Aged for about twelve months in small barrels, Fini is a superb balsamic for under $20. A rich, dark, intensely flavorful vinegar that is perfect to drizzle over strawberries.

Katz & Co. Sparkling Wine Vinegar: I couldn’t wait to bring this one home! Crisp with a pleasant acidity, a very clean tasting and full-bodied vinegar, yet has a wonderful softness to it. We carry five other vinegars from Katz & Co. and I am amazed at the quality of each one. Great vinegars for under $15.

Balsamo di Mela—Apple Balsamic Vinegar: Yes, this vinegar is actually made from fermented apples!  Balsamo di Mela is aged for five years and adds a light and satisfying sweetness to a variety of dishes. Perfect for raw or grilled veggies, roasted meats, fresh fruits and a must for cheese!

When it comes to food, I usually think more is better (my dad says I get that from my mom’s side of the fam—thanks Mom!) That’s why I typically have two or three oils and vinegars open in my kitchen at any given time. Both last a while and it’s so fun to play with the different varieties and combinations. That’s the best way for me to find out about new products to share with you.

Whenever I help out a customer pick out an oil, vinegar or cheese, I usually wind up saying “here’s one of my favorites” a few times throughout the same conversation. And a lot of you have called me out on having more than one favorite! But I can’t help it—I just love our selection so much I can’t limit myself to one (you try picking one favorite out of fifty flavors of ice cream!)

And it’s the truth when I say, “this is one of my favorites.” When I’m home, whatever vinegar I use changes nightly depending on what I’m in the mood for. Maybe I want the lightness and creaminess of a white balsamic tonight, but tomorrow I could go for intensity of a real balsamic. And that’s what I think makes food so fun—it’s forever changing and evolving with your palate leading the way.

Try something new. Don’t be scared when we offer you a taste of something. We are giving you a taste because we want to share the experience with you. I love seeing someone try something new for the first time and seeing their eyes light up with fascination and going “what was that! I want more!” Is there a cheese that you have been eyeing for a while? Or ever want to taste a Greek kalamata olive next to an Italian cerignola olive? And what the heck is the difference between a toscano and a nostrano salami? Just ask for a taste!

I only know what I like. But I always love finding out what you love.

Your foodie friend,
Dougy

Chowin' down for you!

Well, we did it! We made it through one of the most grueling cheesy experiences of the year for anybody in the cheese world. 

We endured goat, cow and sheep, stinky and wash-rind, cheddars, goudas and farmsteads, smoked and flavored, good and not so good and then there were the crème de la crème. Some of you might say, “Grueling! That sounds cheese-tastic!!” I’m not saying I didn’t enjoy the cheese, but I am saying that there was a TON of cheese. 1,686 different cheeses, to be precise (no, we didn't try all of them, though it felt that way sometimes). Starting your day with cheese (we’re talking a cheese plate in the morning), cheese seminars with tastings throughout the day - there was even cheese in the “break room." This weekend certainly wasn't a a stinker, but it was no slice of brie, either. 

How is my brother still smiling
after eating all that cheese?

The point is, most of us attending, whether retailer, cheesemonger, cheesemaker, distributor or even enthusiasts (yes, my cheese-loving friends, you could go, too, if you want to - next year is in Raleigh - mark your calendars!) are full of cheese by the end of the day. The funny part is, Bill and I would both go to bed saying, “I won’t need breakfast in the morning,” and we’d both wake really hungry!

Anyway, if you want to see a list of all the winners from this year's competition, go here. If you want to hear about our own festival favorites, read on...

What Found Us…
Westfield Farms Chocolate Capri Goat Log, Hubbardston, MA: My first reaction: “What the...?” but upon further investigation, I could totally eat a whole log. This one might not be for all of you, I loved it. Think it would be perfect with a slice of strawberry.
 
Bleating Heart Sonoma Toma, Sonoma Country, CA: A real great balance of earthy notes with a buttery and smooth texture. One problem: limited milk supply = limited cheese production.

Hahn’s End Petit Poulet, Phippsburg, ME: Hahn’s End had two of our favorites (Olde Shiretowne is the other), but Petit Poulet stood out. A soft cow’s milk with a bloomy rind and layer of ash, we’re definitely going to try to track this one down. Winner: 3rd place, cow’s milk.

What was left of this year's winner after
an hour or so

What We Found (Again)…
Rogue River Creamery Rogue River Blue, Central Point, OR: A picture says a thousand words! Everybody wanted a taste of this year's Best in Show (officially the Best Cheese in the Country!) For those of you who didn’t get a chance to taste it when we had it in last year, watch out for its comeback. A great cheese that totally deserves to win it all (and Rogue River Creamery owner David Gremmels is an incredibly nice guy - very happy for him and all the folks at RRC!) Winner: 1st place for blue cheese with rind, and Best in Show.

VBC Cremont, Webserville, VT: One of my personal favorites since it came out last year. Rich, luscious and earthy…totally awesome. Winner: 2nd place, mixed milks.




Cowgirl Creamery Mt. Tam, Petaluma, CA: The cowboys will play, but the cowgirls will…make really good cheese!! Buttery and creamy, we’ve always loved Cowgirl cheeses and want them back in the store. Ask for a taste when you see them. Winner: 2nd place original recipe, cow’s milk.

Cyrpess Grove Humboldt Fog, Arcata, CA: We’ve loved Humboldt Fog for years, and many of you have, too. Creamy, tangy, but slightly crumbly. Winner: 3rd place original recipe, goat’s milk.

Notice someone missing? Jasper Hill!! We were a little shocked/disappointed to see the American cheese innovators absent from the official winner list, but we still think Constant Bliss and Moses Sleeper are some of the best American cheeses out there, and we simply can't wait for for their new cheese, Harbison, to show up at our cheese counter (we got a sneak peak, and it was sooooooo good!) Keep on churning that wheel!

Your foodie friend,
Dougy

What a pair

American Cheese Society Cheese Conference, Day 3:


Bill and I did make quite the pair this year in Montreal, if we may say so ourselves, but I'm not talking about ourselves.

Yes, we did just attend the American Cheese Society’s Festival of Cheese tonight, where 1,686 cheeses were on display (yes, you read that right: 1,686) and we took cheese seminars and ate cheese all week, but fortunately the ACS likes to share the spotlight.

We’re talking pâtés, chutneys, preserves, pickled veggies, crackers, and even chocolate. It is important to have standout cheeses on your cheese plate, of course, but having the right accompaniments (an aspect that is often overlooked) should be just as important. Pairings take two separate eating experiences and combine them into a single, elevated eating experience. Here are some of the highlights from tonight:

Maybe the easiest and most often way of pairing cheese is going the jam root. But which jam is right for you? Carol and Debbie became big fans of Schoolhouse Kitchen ever since they tasted the line in D.C. at the food show. And Bill and I were so happy to see Wendy, one of the owners, tonight displaying the line. Bill and I tasted at the table separately and, without discussing at all, we both instantly fell for the Rhubarb Raspberry Thyme spread (how's that for a brother-brother connection). The subtle rhubarb tang mixed with the bright sweetness of raspberry is gently touched with thyme. I could definitely see pairing with Jasper Hill’s Moses Sleeper or an Italian Robiola. Or with Batch Vanilla ice cream! Breakfast at midnight anyone? (Remember: it’s about the cheese! Do not smother the cheese! A little goes a long way. I want to still know that I’m eating fromage.)
 

I was so glad to see Rick’s Picks because a) I think they have killer pickles, and b) they saved me. Yes, I was saved by pickles. After tasting dozens of cheeses at a time, it was the perfect break. But Rick’s Picks aren’t ordinary pickles. Their aromatic Phat Beets have hints of rosemary, ginger and lemon and are a must for a fresh chevere like Capricho de Cabra. I tried the Smokra—pickled okra with paprika. I think Jina, the pickle princess, was ready to cut me off. I just couldn’t stop! I can’t wait to put these on my next sandwich or for an easy app, wrap them in prosciutto. And seriously, the Handy Corn relish I was eating by the spoonfuls. An ever so slightly kick from aji peppers, the relish is awesome as a salsa and is a perfect match for Parrano gouda or Black Diamond Cheddar. We don’t have the whole line yet, but keep your eyes out for it.

 

And we were thrilled to see our neighbors from Sommerville—Taza Chocolate! Chocolate and cheese? Believe it! I think the nuttiness of Aged Mahon would be perfect with Salted Almond Mexicano or taking La Tur with Taza 70% Stone Ground Chocolate. I know Bill and I both can’t wait to get back and test out more duos.

We'll write more about our cheese favorites soon (after all, this was a cheese conference), but next time you pick up your favorite cheese, ask yourself, “What will make this even better?” Or you can just ask us!

Your foodie friend,
Dougy

What does a room full of 1,686 cheeses look like? Something like this.

To market, to market (a really big market!)

American Cheese Society Cheese Conference, Day 2:

What a nice day we had today! After an intense day of seminars and cheese eating yesterday, Bill and I decided to take the morning and explore the Jean Talon Market—one of Montreal’s largest public markets.

Since 1993, the Jean Talon Market and the other public markets throughout the city, have given the people of Montreal the freshest produce and best products. Within minutes of arriving, it is clear that the markets are a vital part of the community. To be clear, this is not like the farmer’s markets we are accustomed to (I've posted some pictures below). The bulk of the market is made up of fruit stands, but there is fresh fish (including lobsters), meats, candles and soaps, cheese, baked goods, there are also actual storefronts within the market and around the perimeter.

The aromas are incredible all throughout the market, and for me, one of the most memorable parts (maybe I was more aware of the scents from the class yesterday). We first entered and the intense smell of fresh fish attacks you, but in a good way. That fresh, briny, ocean smell that some find too much, I find reminds me of Marblehead Harbor. There was even an oyster stand where you could actually try the oysters before you bring them home (most stands were very generous with there samples; only making the experience better). Five or six stands down and a new aroma overtakes you. This time of lavender and an overall sense of relaxation as the scents of hand-dipped candles and huge blocks of handcrafted soaps of all shapes and colors take over.

I was only in the lavender world for a few minutes before my nose got distracted with a familiar smell. The smell of fresh squeezed orange juice, which brought me back to days spent at my grandparent’s in Florida when I was younger, where they'd spoil the grandchildren with fresh squeezed OJ in the morning. It didn’t take long to track it down and discovered “Mangue et Melon”—a juice/smoothie bar. Needless to say, I got a smoothie.

Feeling refreshed and enjoying the live street music of guitars and accordions (who knew accordions could be so enjoyable? It really was one of the first times I actually felt like I was in a different country) we stumbled upon a mushroom/specialty herb stand. We sampled what was described to us as epinard de mer and persil de mer (ocean spinach and ocean parsley)—big, green luscious leaves with an ever so slightly salty taste. I could definitely see Chef Lynne having some fun with this!

The amount of fresh fruit and veggies is incredible and is definitely the prominent smell…the smell of the summer. Fresh berries, fresh tomatoes, melons, corn and more all blend into this one super scent that makes it really hard to resist buying one of everything!

Thanks Montreal for a truly nose-worthy experience!

Your foodie friend,
Dougy

Time to digest

American Cheese Society Cheese Conference Day 1:

Didn’t think it could happen, but we already need a break from cheese. Don’t worry, only for a couple of hours!
We just went to “Meet the Cheesemakers” where there must have been close to a hundred cheeses to taste (the Festival of Cheese on Saturday will have over 1,000 cheeses to taste, to put that into perspective). By far, our personal favorite was the newest creamy sensation from the Cellars at Jasper Hills. Not available yet, but Mateo (the co-founder) said it should be available very soon. We told him to hurry up!

Another standout is from the new Vermont Farmstead Cheese Company. VFC is a community-owned dairy and cheese-making operation where each cow is a member of the community. Peter Mohn (of Grafton Cheese Co. fame, and a Marbleheader) and his team created Lillé—an ancestor to brie. Lillé is delicious and oh so spreadable with a rich, creamy body and nutty notes. Pears and apples would be the perfect match.

We also tried a European style cultured cottage cheese that was fresh and incredibly delightful. Made by a young cheesemaking duo whose motto is “nourish the land that nourishes us all.” Unfortunately, they are located in Indiana and do not have an East coast distributor, yet, but we’ll keep you posted.
 
Earlier today, we partook in a really interesting seminar, “Identifying Flavors,” where we got a direct experience of key cheese-specific flavors and aromas with the help of an expert in sensory evaluation. Did you know that as children we have 10,000 tastebuds, and only 4,000 as adults? BUT studies have proven that getting older is NOT an excuse for claiming you do not taste as much as you did when you were younger. And we learned that chewing releases molecules that help you smell. You really need to chew your food 7-15 times to get the full effect!

Ok, well we’re off to explore the city and get dinner (told you we just needed a little break)—so much to see and so much to eat!
-Doug and Bill